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Development has been slower to gather pace on Bali’s quieter northeastern coast, where a string of low-key resorts and pretty fishing villages are dotted along a spectacular shoreline known as Amed. Colourful catamarans idle on grey-pebble and black-sand beaches, against a backdrop of hills sweeping straight from the shoreline. This dramatic hinterland lends a vivid edge to swims in the transluscent waters off-shore, whose coral reefs swirl with colourful marine life.
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