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Arriving in Jaisalmer can feel like entering another dimension. The town, whose crumbling walls rise out of a vast expanse of shimmering sand flats, holds a unique atmosphere. Some attribute it to the distinctive, finely carved yellow stonework; others to the gorgeous light, which bathes the citadel in a surreal golden colour towards the end of the day. Visits to highly ornamented merchants’ havelis (mansions) and Jain temples, handicraft shopping and camel treks provide distractions for visitors, but watching the sunset over the Thar is always the day’s highpoint.