Flavours of North India

Kolkata, or ‘Calcutta’ as it was known prior to 2001, is the capital of West Bengal state, and India’s third largest city. The former East India Company trading post preserves much of its colonial architecture, from the crumbling mansions in Chowringhee to the grandiloquent Victoria Memorial, whose marble domes soar above the banks of the Hooghly River. This is a city where everyday sights often prove the most arresting: pilgrims pouring through the Kali Ghat temple; the flower sellers spreading out their wares in the dawn light at Mullick Ghat; and the endless streams of rickshaws, trucks and pedestrians pouring across Howrah Bridge at rush hours.

The India Coffee House is a chain of coffee shops established in 1936 and today a popular hangout for students and young people. Certainly a place to experience its history and atmosphere, rather than the quality of its coffee!

Tonight you will also enjoy dinner at a Bengali family home. The family (or at least the cook in the family) will show you how they prepare the meal and all the ingredients they use. And of course you'll get to participate and help out with the cooking.

Lucknow, former capital of the Nawabs of Avadh, whose grandiloquent monuments recall an era when this ranked among the most cultured and sophisticated cities in the Muslim world. Although synonymous with the decadence of its former rulers, Lucknow’s most famous monument is the battle-scarred former British Residency, where in 1857 a handful of European soldiers and civilians survived two protracted sieges waged by mutinous Indian troops, lasting 87 and 61 days respectively. A small site museum houses images and artefacts relating to the events.

The relics of the Nawabs of Avadh stand proud on the northwest edge of the city. They include the outrageously opulent Bara Imambara – one of the largest vaulted halls in the world – and the fairy tale Hussainabad Imambara, or ‘Palace of Lights’. Both would have hosted sumptuous banquets and performances of amorous Thumri poetry, music and Kathak dance, performed by courtesans in front of sumptuously attired audiences.

Indian Railways has one of the largest networks in the world and station and railway life is a microcosm unto itself. One of the most rewarding ways to see and experience authentic India is to travel by train. You will travel in an air-conditioned first class sleeper carriage and dinner will be served onboard.

The narrow lanes of Old Delhi once formed the hub of the Mughal capital, formerly known as ‘Shajahanabad’ after the great Emperor Shah Jahan. Different streets are given over to different trades in this atmospheric district and in the lanes of Khari Baoli you will be introduced to saffron, the most expensive spice in the world, by one of the oldest and largest distributors of this exotic spice. 

An early start is required to catch the Gatimaan Express, which takes a little over an hour to reach Agra from Delhi. On arrival, you’ll be driven to the city’s great Mughal Fort, where Shah Jahan, creator of the Taj Mahal, was imprisoned at the end of his life by his son, Aurangzeb. Through its finely carved pillars and cusp-arched windows you’ll be able to savour the same romantic views as the ailing ruler enjoyed. This is of course followed by a visit to the world famous monument itself.

Continue to Fatehpur Sikri, a once splendid palace complex built at lavish expense at end of the 16^th century to accommodate the Mughal emperor and his court. The finely carved, dark-red sandstone buildings were only inhabited for sixteen years and remain in superb condition, vividly evoking the opulence of the Mughal era, during which time India ranked among the richest and most culturally sophisticated countries in the world. During his sojourn here, Akbar gathered the finest artists, poets, calligraphers, musicians and dancers in the land, as well as representatives of its major faiths, whom he engaged in philosophical debates. Among many architectural highlights are the Diwan-i-Khas audience hall, with its ornately carved throne pillar, the beautiful white marble Tomb of Sheikh Salim Chishti (a revered Sufi mystic) and imposing Buland Darwaza gateway.

Perched on the rim of a dramatic escarpment, Amber Fort retains some of the finest interiors surviving from the 16^th and 17^th centuries in India, notably a glittering ‘Hall of Mirrors’, or ‘Sheesh Mahal’, lined with intricate mosaics where the Maharaja and his consorts would enjoy music and poetry recitals.

Jaipur itself is a swirl of life and colour, and its numerous Rajput monuments and markets provide the focus for the rest of the day. You’ll begin at the famous City Palace complex, which includes the much photographed ‘Hawa Mahal’, or ‘Palace of Winds’, a five-storey façade of elaborately screened windows from where the women of the royal household used to watch processions in the streets below. Treasures from the royal household are proudly displayed in the old pillared assembly halls below, and include jewels, weapons and regalia from Jaipur’s 18^th-century heyday.

There’s really no better way to get a sense of life in the Rajasthani capital than a walking tour of the old walled quarter. We always recommend starting at first light, with a visit to a typical Jaipuri tea shop for chai and hot ‘jalebis’. Then follow your guide to see gem cutters, jewellers, perfumiers, flower vendors and sweet makers beginning their day, pausing at a local Hindu shrine or two along the way (there are an estimated 2,000 temples crammed into the Pink City).  Alternatively head into the jewellery bazaar to seek out some last-minute bargains. The bulk of the world’s semi-precious stones are cut and polished in Jaipur: choose from a dazzling array of lapis lazuli, amber, emeralds, rubies, sapphires and aquamarine, and have them set in silver or platinum for collection the next day. The Pink City is also a good place to buy fine-quality, hand-printed calicos and other textiles, as well as richly decorated, Mughal-style silk rugs and pashmina shawls woven in Kashmir.

Before the last British troops garrisoned in the country slow-marched past it to board their ships back to Blighty in 1947, Mumbai’s Gateway of India – a huge triumphal arch in the colonial Indo-Sarcenic style – was the first landmark most new arrivals from Britain set eyes on. The second was the famous Taj Mahal Hotel beside it (then known as ‘Watson’s’). Both still stand tall on the waterfront, as emblematic of the city today as they were in Victorian times.

A bustling, prosperous area, Matunga is home to three main communities: Hindu Tamil Brahmins, Hindu Gujaratis and Jains. As you walk through the market your guide will show you vegetables, herbs and spices typically used by the local communities, as well as seasonal specialities on offer. You'll stop at a local shop to see, and sample, the dazzling array of snacks and treats on sale, and at the 'mukhwas' counter you can sample the wide range of mouth fresheners for post-snacking!

Afternoon tea is popular in Mumbai and the Sea Lounge is a real afternoon tea institution. Alongside a delicious array of English treats, expect some local favourites to adorn your plate, which you can enjoy with views of the Gateway of India and live piano music - perfect for a mid-afternoon pick-me-up.

We recommend taking part in a popular Mumbai past-time this evening - a sunset stroll along Marine Drive. If you've done enough walking for the day then you may prefer to sit back with a cocktail and take in the fantastic views of Mumbai's seafront from the rooftop bar Dome at Hotel Inter Continental.