A 20-minute uphill walk through the rice and mustard fields surrounding Sopsokha village leads to the famous Chimi Lhakhang monastery. Along the way, you can’t fail to notice the pink, red and blue ejaculating penises painted in formal Buddhist style over local housefronts, a legacy of this area’s veneration of the 15th century poet and Tantric luminary, Drukpa Kunley, who blessed the site and built a stupa here.

The monastery houses its greatest treasure - the original ten-inch wooden phallus brought by Kunley from Tibet, in an ornately appointed altar room dominated by a statue of the “Divine Madman” himself. It’s now an object of great veneration in Bhutan, notably among women wishing to conceive, who are blessed by being tapped on the head with it.

 

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