For a taste of life in the slow lane of northern Laos, Muang La, in the Nong Khiaw Valley, is hard to beat. Situated in one of the most scenic corners of the region, this sleepy riverside village is surrounded by forested hills inhabited mostly by ethnic minority people: the Hmong, Ikhos and Khamus. It’s well off the beaten track, with only one noteworthy place to stay - a beautifully set up eco-resort, that serves as a perfect base for treks into the surrounding countryside, and mountain bike and 4WD trips to nearby hill tribe villages.

The hotel also has its own boats and offers leisurely but adventurous excursions along rivers in the area, including a 3-hour journey between Muang Khua and Nong Khiaw via the Nam Phak, which flows through a succession of deep, wooded valleys flanked by striking karst mountainsides - without doubt one of the prettiest stretches of water in all of Southeast Asia.

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