A dusty, bumpy track running south off the Friendship Highway leads to the most spectacular close-up view of the world’s highest mountain you can have from ground level – at least without having to undertake an arduous, two-week trek. It leads to little Rongbuk monastery, in the Dzakar Chu valley, from where the magisterial north face of Everest is revealed in all its glory. Being in the shadow of the Himalayas, the valley sees very little snow, ensuring its slopes remain stark and stoney for most of the year – which only serves to accentuate the surreal beauty of the giant white pyramid looming at its head.

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