Encapsulating the twin facets of modern urban life in Indonesia, the north-coast Javanese city of Semarang is divided between its antique, Dutch-built colonial quarter, and the 8-lane highways, skyscrapers and malls of the modern Simpang Lima district. Dilapidated old warehouses and administrative buildings line the streets of the former colonial enclave, known as ‘Outstadt’, while the city’s most iconic European landmark, the twin-towered Lawang Sewu, has recently been renovated and now welcomes visitors. On the outskirts, the huge Gedung Batu Chinese temple, with its tall pagoda roofs and red paper lanterns, also warrants a tour if you’re passing through en route to or from the east.