A major stop on the old Silk Road, Urumqi is today the capital of Xinjiang’s ‘Uyghur Autonomous Region’ (UAR), with a population of over 3 million. It’s a sprawling modern city, of interest primarily as a transport hub, but does possess an outstanding museum (famed for its collection of desiccated mummies from ancient sites further west) and lies within easy range of the chimeric Tian Chi, “Heaven Lake”.

Surrounded by snow peaks, pine forests and grassy meadows, the shores of this exquisitely beautiful lake are frequented by nomadic Kazakh herders, some of whom host visitors in their yurt camps for a night or two – a magical experience. A small fleet of excursion boats also chugs across the lake in summer, providing a relaxing way to enjoy the fabulous scenery.