Renowned for its 2,000-year-old cypress trees, the Alishan National Park is situated at the foot of Jade Mountain (3,952m), the highest point in northeast Asia. A metalled road runs all the way to Alishan itself, but a more atmospheric way to reach the park is on the old narrow-gauge Forest Railway, which twists and turns through lush banana groves, bamboo forest and pine woods.

An obligatory stop en route is the village of Fenqihu, whose historic main streets are lined with antique wooden shops and narrow alleys, where you can sample cups of piquant wasabi coffee and local tea, as well as “stinky tofu” and other eye-watering mountain delicacies. The absolute ‘must do’ here though is the predawn train ride to the summit of Chushan Mountain to watch the sunrise, followed by a leisurely descent on foot.

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