Battambang’s number one attraction is its bone-jarring, quirky ‘Bamboo Train’. The service, which is perennially under threat of suspension, runs along a section of the main Phnom Penh–Sisophon railway. The ‘train’ itself is comprised of a wooden, slatted platform mounted on an old set of narrow-gauge wheels, which are propelled along the single track by a petrol engine. If another bogey is encountered head-on, the one with the fewest passengers has to be dismantled and moved to give way! Apart from being great fun, the ride yields glimpses of rural life in the fields around Battambang.

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