Chittaurgarh (or ‘Chittor’), in the far southeast of Rajasthan, is famous for its majestic fort – the scene of a succession of medieval sieges and battles between the Rajputs and Mughals. You could easily spend a whole day wandering around its formidable ramparts, which wind along the lip of undulating escarpments to scattered temples, bathing tanks, gardens, ruined palaces and, eventually, the iconic Vijay Stambh, or ‘Victory Pillar’, which Rana Kumbh erected in 1440 to commemorate his defeat of the Sultan Mahmud Khilji. A narrow flight of steps winds to the top of the ornately sculpted tower, where a stupendous view over the plateau is revealed from an upper terrace.

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