The seat of one of Mewar’s most powerful feudal barons, Deogarh lies deep in the arid back country outside Udaipur. Dominating this remote market town is one of Rajasthan’s most imposing fort-palaces – a huge, fairy-tale pile of domes and cuppolas painted striking ochre and white.

Descendants of the former ‘Rawat’ (Raja) have turned the property into a fabulous heritage hotel, where guests may stay in spectacular suites enlivened by multi-coloured stained-glass windows, mirror-encrusted ceilings and antique furniture. Flights of worn steps interconnect balconies and pillared walkways, revealing glimpses of hidden courtyards and views through pierced-stone jali screens over the town and surrounding scrubland.

You can go for cycle rides in the desert, join a camel trek or take one of the thoroughbred Merwari horses for a hack to hotel’s exclusive lake palace, Seen Sagar. In the evenings, fine Rajasthani cuisine is served al fresco from silver platters on a high, candle-lit terrace against the backdrop of the palace’s floodlit facade.

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