The craggy, forested peaks of the Satpura (or ‘Mahadeo’) mountains form a romantic backdrop for safaris in this remote park in southern Madhya Pradesh. Tiger sightings are not as frequent as at other parks in the state – this is somewhere people come more for a relaxed experience of unsullied wilderness rather than the charged atmosphere of the famous reserves further north. Satpura ranks among the few sanctuaries in India where you can undertake safaris on foot. Wardens and guides lead visitors on wonderful treks through the sal, teak and bamboo groves, and further afield to far-flung prehistoric rock-art sites in the depths of the forest.