Opposite the east entrance to the Meenakshi-Sundeshwarar temple in Madurai, is a grand pillared hall where tailors, flower sellers and religious souvenir vendors ply their trades. Look out for the intricate patterns of rice flour traced each morning in front of the stalls, and the music boutiques where you can buy pirated CDs of ancient Tamil hymns played on synths and electric guitars.

You can add this experience to any tailor-made itinerary that includes a night in Madurai.