Lots of luxury safari lodges have eco-friendly veneers these days, but this place is green to its roots. Set on a low rise overlooking the serene River Ken, next to the Panna Tiger Reserve and within easy reach of Khajuraho, the eight cottage site is the creation of husband-and-wife team, Raghu and Joanna. She’s a Northumberland-born wildlife writer and photographer who’s lived in India for thirty years; he’s a renowned biologist and conservationist from Madhya Pradesh.
Sustainable as well as stylish, their delightful thatched cottages have large open verandahs, thick mud walls (so no need for energy-hungry air-con) and elegantly designed interiors that favour locally made textiles. As well as being a walking encyclopedia on local wildlife, Raghu’s also a dab hand in the kitchen, rustling up deliciously smokey north Indian dishes.
Safaris to the adjacent reserve are a must, but you can also enjoy bird-spotting trips on the river by rowing boat and excursions to nearby forts, tombs, prehistoric rock art sites and waterfalls.