Considering its remote location across from Hiroshima on Japan’s north sea coast, Hagi is packed with history. In the feudal Edo era it was the stronghold of the powerful Mori clan, who now lie in one of Japan’s most atmospheric temple grounds with hundreds of stone lanterns. This small town was also the birthplace of the Choshu five, who studied in Europe and became key figures in Japan’s modernisation during the Meiji era. The country’s first smelting furnace is now one of five UNESCO world heritage sites here, along with an atmospheric area of original samurai dwellings.