A sprawling modern city of nearly a million inhabitants, the Nepali capital can feel overwhelmingly crowded and chaotic on first impressions. But head for its ancient core and things improve dramatically.

Durbar Square forms the epicentre of the old quarter. More than fifty temples, 106 monastery courtyards (bahals) and countless shrines line its narrow, cobbled backstreets and stone-paved piazzas. Settle on to one of the terraced platforms of the Manju Devul tower to watch the exotic bustle of marigold sellers, saffron-clad sadhus, stray cows and pigeons. In the evening, the group will convene for a 7-course Nepali banquet at the famous Bhojan Griha restaurant in Dillibazaar.

After breakfast, the group will head to Boudhanath, the largest stupa in the country, embellished with piercing eyes and strings of prayer flags dangling from a spectacularly gilded tower. Later, we’ll board the group bus for the trip out to Bhaktapur, which boasts an impressive concentration of medieval palaces, courtyard monasteries (bahals) and monumental squares. Despite being Nepal’s third city, it’s a much more easygoing destination thanks to the absence of traffic from its centre.

An optional – but highly recommended – extra on the third day of your Nepal adventure is the flight to see the world’s highest mountain, Everest. At the crack of dawn, a fleet of small, 16-seater aircraft depart Kathmandu’s airport for a scenic 45- to 60-minute flight which, weather permitting, yields unforgettable views of the ice giants lining the Nepali-Tibet border. All passengers have a window seat and for many this is the only practical way of getting up-close to some of the most magnificent scenery in the entire Himalayan range.

Newari traders from the Kathmandu Valley established Bandipur as a hub on the Indo-Tibet road in the late 18th century, bringing with them the rich architectural heritage that endures in the town to this day. Bypassed by the main Pokhara–Kathmadu highway, its core of brick and wood shop-houses and temple, beautifully embellished with traditional metal work and wood carving, has remained miraculously unsullied by concrete. Before supper, walk up to the old parade ground, or tudikhel, to enjoy the astounding sunset views of the Annapurnas, Mansulu range and Marsyangdi Valley from the avenue of fig trees along its western edge.

Pokhara is the only town in Nepal that could be described as a ‘resort’. Lying 198km west of the capital along the Prithvi Highway, it owes its popularity to the magical view of Machapuchare (‘Fish Tail’) reflected in the glassy waters of beautiful Phewa Tal lake. Spend the rest of the day exploring the lakeshore and market area with your guide.

You can soak up the famous icy profile in a café on the lakeshore, or from the water on an evening boat cruise. Later, take the cable car up to the Peace Pagoda overlooking the town for a truly jaw-dropping vie  of the Himalayan summits to the north, which soar from 1000m to 7,500m in less than 30km. Your guide will be on hand to advise any keen walkers in the group who wish to undertake a short trek on their own.

The one-horned rhinoceros is emblematic of this area, which it shares with a handful of wild (as opposed to domestic) elephants, crocodile, buffalo and bison. Deer such as the spotted and swamp varieties along with sambar are ubiquitous but there are also antelopes, tigers and leopards, hyenas, sloth bears and jackals. A handful of gangetic dolphins survive in the Karnali River and these may be sighted on boat trips.

Get close to the Jurassic-looking rhinos that are Chitwan National Park's big stars, as well as the more elusive tigers inhabiting its core zone, on a jeep safari. Sightings of Gangetic dolphins and gharial crocs are almost guaranteed on the river, which you can explore by canoe. Later, visit the local Tharu village and a co-operative that uses elephant dung to make artisanal paper.

It’s hard to think of a better place to spend your final evening in Nepal that the dramatic hilltop temple of Swayambhunath. Colloquially known as ‘the Monkey Temple’ for its resident population of macaques, the complex centres on magnificent stupa whose gilded tower and pair of huge, all-seeing eyes have become emblematic of Kathmandu.